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Jebel Expeditions
Expeditions India Level 5

Mt. Black Peak (Kalanag) Expedition

MPM
Duration
15 days
Location
India
Grade
Challenging
Max altitude
6,387m
Distance
75 km
Group size
2–10 people
Season
May, June, September, October
Trail type
Technical expedition

Dominating the Saraswati range at 6,387 meters, Black Peak (Kala Nag) is the highest and most coveted mountaineering challenge in Uttarakhand's Govind Pashu Vihar National Park. The expedition leads climbers through the alpine trails of Ruinsara Valley into high-altitude terrain marked by glacial moraines, crevasses, and a steep summit ridge. Famous for its distinctive serpent-like black rocky crest, it offers ambitious mountaineers the ideal proving ground for technical Himalayan ascents. Join Jebel Expeditions for an expertly guided alpine journey featuring comprehensive safety, seasoned mountain leaders, and panoramic views of the Bandarpunch massif.

Towering at 6,387 meters (20,955 ft), Black Peak—locally revered as Kala Nag for its resemblance to an erect black cobra hood—is the highest and most formidable summit in Uttarakhand's Saraswati (Bandarpunch) range. Located within Govind Pashu Vihar National Park, this technical Himalayan expedition serves as an essential milestone for mountaineers transitioning toward 7,000-meter peaks and advanced alpine objectives.

The expedition combines a classic Garhwal approach through the scenic Supin River valley, ancient wooden villages like Osla, and the alpine waters of Ruinsara Tal before establishing high camps above the moraine line. Higher up, climbers encounter crevassed glacier crossings, load-ferrying protocols, fixed-rope ascents, and an exposed 70–75° summit ice/snow wall.

What Makes This Climb Demanding?

  • Progressive Load Ferrying: High-camp staging requires climbing teams to ferry loads between Kyarkoti Base Camp, Advance Base Camp (ABC), and Camp 1, reinforcing the traditional climb high, sleep low mountaineering discipline.

  • Complex Glacier Travel: Navigating active moraines and crevasse-riddled snowfields demands disciplined roped travel and pre-dawn movements when snow bridges remain solid.

  • The Technical Summit Wall: The push from Summit Camp involves ascending steep 70° to 75° hard-snow and ice pitches using fixed lines, jumars, and crampons before navigating the exposed final summit ridge with vistas across Swargarohini, Bandarpunch I & II, and the Kinnaur ranges.

Trip facts

Walking hours/day
4–16 hrs (summit day longest)
Activities
Glacier expedition, technical summit, ridge climbing
Meals
As per expedition package
Accommodation
Guest house (Sankri) + expedition camping
Starting point
Sankri (via Dehradun, Tons Valley)
Fitness level required
Strong fitness, endurance, glacier travel skills, prior high-altitude experience

  • 6,387 m — the highest peak of the Bandarpoonch Massif, with a near-vertical (~70°) ice wall
  • Views of Swargarohini, Bandarpoonch, Bhagirathi and Gangotri ranges

Day-by-Day Itinerary

1.Dehradun to Sankri (Drive):

Depart early from Dehradun along the Yamuna and Tons river corridors via Mussoorie and Purola. Arrive at the base mountain village of Sankri (1,950 m / ~8–9 hrs drive). Complete initial team introductions, gear distribution, and briefing. Overnight in a guest house.

2.Sankri to Taluka (Drive) & Trek to Seema:

A short 12 km drive through rugged terrain reaches the trailhead at Taluka (2,075 m). Begin trekking along the Supin River through mixed chestnut, walnut, and deodar forests toward Seema / Osla (~12 km / 5–6 hrs, 2,560 m). Camp alongside the riverbank.

3.Seema to Rainbasira:

Ascend steadily out of the lower valley into more rugged alpine terrain. Follow the river gorge toward the confluence of the Supin and Ruinsara streams, climbing through boulder fields and birch lines to reach the Rainbasira campsite (~8 km / 5–6 hrs, 3,100 m).

4.Rainbasira to Ruinsara Tal:

Continue climbing up the scenic glacial valley. Reach the shores of Ruinsara Tal (3,565 m / ~7 km / 4–5 hrs), a glacial lake revered in local folklore. Spend the afternoon resting, hydrating, and soaking in views of Bandarpoonch Glacier and Dhumdhar Kandi pass.

5.Ruinsara Tal to Kyarkoti Base Camp:

Traverse lateral moraines and cross alpine riverbeds to reach the expansive high meadows of Kyarkoti Base Camp (3,800 m / ~5 km / 3–4 hrs). This serves as the primary operational staging ground for all summit logistics.

6.Acclimatization & Technical Training at Base Camp:

Active rest day. The technical climbing team conducts hands-on refresher sessions: harness fittings, roped glacier team movement, crevasse rescue protocols, jumar ascents, and ice-axe self-arrest techniques.

7.Load Ferry to Advance Base Camp (ABC) & Return:Climb high, sleep low protocol.

Ferry personal climbing gear, high-altitude rations, and fixed lines across glacial moraines up to Advance Base Camp (ABC, ~4,600 m / 5–6 hrs round-trip). Return to Kyarkoti Base Camp to sleep low, aiding acclimatization.

8.Move to Advance Base Camp (ABC):

Ascend and occupy ABC (4,600 m). Settle into high-altitude expedition tents set on moraine beds. Conduct evening snow safety briefings and prepare equipment for higher glaciated movement.

9.Load Ferry to Camp 1 & Return:

Climb out of the moraine onto the glaciated terrain of the Black Peak glacier. Negotiate crevasses with roped-up teams to ferry loads to Camp 1 (~5,050 m). Cache equipment and descend back to ABC for the night.

10.Move to Camp 1:

Pack high camp essentials and ascend to occupy Camp 1 (5,050 m / ~4–5 hrs). The air is noticeably thinner and temperatures drop well below freezing. Rest, hydrate, and prepare high-altitude nutrition.

11.Move to Summit Camp:

Traverse crevassed snowfields to establish Summit Camp (5,500 m / ~4 hrs). Early dinner, kit preparation (crampons fitted, harnesses on), and resting in tents ahead of an alpine midnight start.

12.Summit Push (6,387 m) & Descend to Camp 1 / ABC:Midnight push on steep technical ice.

Begin the ascent around midnight to 1:00 AM. Cross the upper glacier to confront the 75-foot steep ice wall, ascending via fixed ropes and jumars. Follow the exposed final ridge to the summit of Black Peak (6,387 m). Descend cautiously via abseil/rappelling back to Summit Camp, then drop down to Camp 1 or ABC for rest.

13.Reserve / Buffer Day:Mandatory contingency for weather or summit delays.

Built-in contingency day utilized in case of adverse mountain weather, high winds, or additional acclimatization needs during the summit window.

14.Descend to Kyarkoti Base Camp & Ruinsara Tal:

Pack up high-altitude camps, clear all trash and equipment under strict Leave No Trace principles, and descend past the moraine fields back to Ruinsara Tal / Seema.

15.Trek to Taluka & Drive to Sankri:

Trek down through the Supin valley back to Taluka roadhead. Board waiting vehicles for the short transfer back to Sankri. Hot showers, celebration dinner, and debriefing.

16.Sankri to Dehradun (Drive):

Depart Sankri after breakfast, arriving in Dehradun by late evening for onward travel.

Accommodation & Logistics

  • Base Stays: Guest house / lodge accommodation in Sankri on twin/triple sharing (arrival and departure nights).

  • High Camps: Premium, 4-season alpine expedition tents (twin-sharing) from Base Camp through Summit Camps.

  • Camp Infrastructure: Dedicated kitchen tent, dining tent, dry toilet tents, camping stools, and central mess setup.

  • Ground Transfers: Shared overland transport between Dehradun and Sankri (round trip), and trailhead transfers between Sankri and Taluka.

Technical & Safety Equipment

  • Common Mountaineering Gear: Dynamic and static climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice pitons, deadmen, carabiners, and climbing anchors.

  • High-Altitude Medical Support: Medical-grade oxygen cylinders, Gamow bag / stretcher, pulse oximeter, BP monitors, and a high-altitude first-aid kit.

  • Communication: Base-to-camp satellite/VHF walkie-talkie communication networks.

Human Resources & Guided Leadership

  • Qualified Expedition Leader: Certified UIAGM/IMF-recognized or advanced mountaineering-qualified expedition leader.

  • High-Altitude Sherpas / Guides: Experienced summit Sherpas and technical climbing guides (1:2 to 1:3 climber-to-guide ratio on summit night).

  • Camp Crew: High-altitude mountain chef and support kitchen staff.

  • Porters / Pack Animals: Mules and porters for common expedition luggage, high-altitude gear, and rations up to Base Camp.

Meals & Permits

  • Nutritious Expedition Nutrition: All freshly prepared, hygienic meals (vegetarian and egg-based) designed for sustained energy output at high altitudes.

  • Official Clearances: Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) peak booking fees, forest department entry clearances, and local inner-line permits.

  • Personal Mountaineering Gear: Personal climbing boots (double/triple mountaineering boots), crampons, climbing harness, ice axe, ascender (jumar), personal carabiners, and helmet (available on advance rental).

  • Personal High-Altitude Layering: Extreme cold-weather down suits/jackets, -20°C sleeping bag, inner liners, technical gloves, and goggles.

  • Personal Porterage: Personal backpack load offloading (available at additional cost arranged before departure).

  • Transit Meals: Food and beverages during the road drive between Dehradun and Sankri.

  • Insurance & Evacuation: Mandatory high-altitude mountaineering insurance covering search, emergency helicopter evacuation, and medical hospitalization.

  • Buffer Day Expenses: Cost of accommodation, meals, or transfers if buffer days are utilized beyond the primary itinerary.

  • Personal Discretionary Expenses: Tips for guides/porters, laundry, personal gear purchases, hot water charges at guest houses, or alcoholic beverages.

Age
16–50 years
Fitness benchmark
Beginner and experienced trekkers with good physical fitness; capable of walking 6–8 km/day with a minimum load of 10 kg
Medical & health restrictions
Physically and medically fit; comfortable with exertion at high altitude; digital detox during sleeping hours (10 PM–5 AM)

AMS Management

  • Mandatory daily oxygen/health checks, acclimatisation hikes, and immediate descent for severe Acute Mountain Sickness

Emergency Kit

  • Guides carry portable oxygen cylinders, comprehensive first aid and pulse oximeters

Rope Protection

  • Fixed ropes set up on steep, exposed ridges for the summit push

Weather Policy

  • Summit attempts only in clear weather windows; a buffer day is factored into the itinerary

Training & Acclimatisation

  • Cardio base (e.g. 10 km in 60 min), load training with a 10 kg rucksack, and breathing practice (e.g. pranayama) recommended pre-trip

Personal to Bring

  • Waterproof shell jacket & pants – 1 pair
  • Insulated puff/down jacket – 1
  • Thermal base layers (upper & lower) – min 2 pairs
  • Trekking t-shirts (full sleeve preferred) – min 3
  • Trekking trousers (full length) – min 3
  • Water-repellent summit trousers with warm lining – 1 pair (optional)
  • Waterproof insulated gloves (double layer) – 2 pairs
  • Inner liner gloves – 2 pairs
  • Beanie / woollen cap
  • Buff / bandana / face mask
  • Sun cap / hat
  • Travelling jacket
  • Undergarments
  • Poncho (optional)
  • Balaclava (optional)
  • Waterproof carry bags / polythene covers
  • Trekking boots with ankle support
  • Nylon socks – min 4 pairs
  • Warm woollen socks – min 3 pairs
  • Flip-flops/slippers for camps (optional)
  • Headlamp with spare batteries
  • Mobile phone, charger, camera (waterproof cover)
  • Power bank / solar charger
  • Daypack (30L+)
  • Rucksack (75L+)
  • Trekking poles (optional)
  • Leak-proof heat-resistant water bottles – min 2 (1L each)
  • Leak-proof lunch box with spoon
  • UV-protected sunglasses
  • Sunscreen, moisturiser, lip balm
  • Toiletries and hygiene kit
  • Lightweight towel
  • Prescribed personal medications
  • Extra snacks/energy bars (optional)
  • Government-issued ID & address proof (Aadhaar/Passport)
  • Visa (if applicable)
  • Self-attested insurance copy (foreign participants, mandatory)
  • Two passport-size photographs
  • Signed Self-Declaration, Indemnity Bond and Medical Certificate

Operator Provided

  • Harness, mountaineering boots, crampons, gaiters, climbing helmet, slings, carabiners, prusik loop, ascender, rappelling devices
  • 4-season expedition tents and international-standard sleeping systems
  • Fixed ropes and technical equipment at higher camps

Plans change, and mountains change them for you. Here is exactly what happens to your money when they do.

1. How much you get back

Cancellation charges are worked out from the day we receive your written notice to Day 1 of the itinerary — your first scheduled day of travel, not the date you fly out from the UAE.

  • 60 days or more before Day 1 — 100% of the land package refunded

  • 45–59 days — 75% refunded

  • 30–44 days — 50% refunded

  • 15–29 days — 25% refunded

  • 14 days or fewer — no refund

Percentages apply to the land package — everything we arrange for you at the destination. Your deposit and the third-party costs listed in section 2 sit outside this and are deducted first. Not turning up is treated the same as cancelling on the day.

Peak-season departures and private or charter trips are sometimes held under tighter supplier terms. Where a different schedule applies to your trip, we show it to you on the booking page before you pay a deposit.

2. What we can't refund

Some of your money leaves the UAE the moment your place is confirmed, and it does not come back to us. Once these are issued, purchased or committed, they are deducted in full from any refund, however early you cancel:

  • Domestic flights, ferries or other internal transport booked within the destination

  • Permits, park entry fees and any registration issued in your name, where these are non-transferable under local rules

  • Visa fees for the destination country

  • Travel insurance premiums, once your policy is issued

  • Accommodation pre-payments that the property itself treats as non-refundable, particularly in peak season

  • International airfare, where we booked it for you — this follows the airline's own fare rules

  • Equipment or gear bought or hired specifically for you

If a supplier does return money to us after you cancel, we pass every dirham of it on to you, less the bank charges we incur receiving it.

3. Deposit and balance

A deposit of 25% of the trip price, minimum AED 1,500 per person, holds your place. It is non-refundable, but it can move with you to another departure — see section 4.

The balance is due 45 days before Day 1. Book inside 45 days and the full amount is payable at the time of booking. If the balance is not paid by the due date, we treat the booking as cancelled by you and the deposit is forfeited.

We take payment in dirhams by card or bank transfer to the company account named on your invoice. Never hand cash to a guide or local agent, and never pay a third party on our behalf. Payments made that way sit outside this contract and we cannot refund them.

4. Moving your booking

We would rather move you than lose you.

  • 60 days or more before departure — one move to another Jebel Expeditions departure within 12 months, free. Your deposit travels with you; any price difference is payable.

  • 30 to 59 days — a move costs AED 500 per person, plus anything already committed under section 2.

  • Under 30 days — this counts as a cancellation and section 1 applies.

You can also pass your place to someone else up to 21 days before departure, as long as they meet the fitness and experience requirements for that trip and any local paperwork can be issued in time. That costs AED 500 per person plus the real cost of reissuing flights, permits or visas.

One free move per booking.

5. If we cancel

Not enough people

Fixed departures need a minimum group size, shown on each trip page. We confirm or cancel no later than 45 days before Day 1. If we cancel, you choose: everything you have paid us back in full, including the deposit, or a move to another departure.

Anything else within our control

You get a full refund of everything paid to us. We will also cover documented costs you took on because of the booking — independently booked flights, visa fees — up to AED 2,000 per person, against receipts.

Events beyond anyone's control

Extreme weather, natural disaster, airspace or border closure, strikes, civil unrest, epidemic, or permits withdrawn by a local authority. We charge you no cancellation fee of our own in these situations. We refund everything we recover from suppliers, and issue a credit note for the rest, valid 18 months and transferable to a close family member.

6. Changes during the trip

Itineraries move with local conditions. Your trip leader may change routing, accommodation or the day-to-day plan where safety or circumstances require it.

Where a flight, transfer or crossing central to the itinerary is disrupted, we hold the group at the standard of accommodation booked, or arrange an alternative where one is available. Alternatives outside the original plan are not included in the trip price; the cost is shared between those who use them and is payable before travel, or claimed from your insurer where your policy covers delay.

Extra nights, meals and transport caused by disruption outside our control are yours to pay, and are usually covered by travel insurance. Where a change is within our control and materially reduces what you get, we refund the difference.

7. Leaving early

If you leave a trip before it ends — for any reason — there is no refund for unused nights, meals, transport, guiding or permits. Those are already paid for.

Evacuation, hospital treatment and repatriation are your responsibility and are claimed from your insurer. We coordinate the evacuation and give your insurer every document they ask for. If we advance money for you in an emergency, it is repayable within 14 days of your return.

We may also end your trip if you are not fit to continue safely, if you misrepresented your health or experience, or if your conduct puts the group or our staff at risk. No refund is due in those cases.

8. Insurance is not optional

You cannot travel with us without travel insurance. Your policy must cover, at a minimum:

  • the activities and terrain on your specific itinerary — check this matches before you buy

  • emergency evacuation and repatriation

  • medical treatment abroad

  • trip cancellation and curtailment

Send us your policy number, insurer and 24-hour emergency line at least 30 days before departure. Without it we cannot let you travel, and that counts as a cancellation under section 1.

Most of what this policy cannot return to you, a good insurance policy can. Read the cancellation clauses before you book, not after.

9. How refunds are paid

  • In dirhams, to the original payment method and the original payer only. We cannot pay a refund into someone else's account.

  • Processed within 21 business days of us confirming the amount in writing. Card refunds can take another 7 to 14 working days to show on your statement.

  • Bank charges, card fees and currency conversion losses come out of the refunded amount.

  • Where the refund depends on money coming back from an airline or local supplier, the clock starts when we receive it. We will update you in writing every 14 days until it is settled.

Cancelling for a medical emergency, a bereavement in your immediate family, or a visa refusal outside your control? Tell us before Day 1 and send documentation within 14 days. We will chase supplier waivers on your behalf and turn what we retain into an 18-month credit note rather than keeping it.

10. If something goes wrong

Write to us first. We acknowledge cancellation notices within one business day, confirm the refund calculation within five, and answer complaints substantively within ten.

If we have not resolved it, you can take the matter to the Department of Economy and Tourism in Dubai at consumerrights.ae, through the Dubai Consumer app, or on 600 545 555, under Federal Law No. 15 of 2020 on Consumer Protection.

This policy forms part of our booking terms and conditions, is governed by the laws of the UAE as applied in Dubai, and the Dubai courts have exclusive jurisdiction. Nothing here removes a right you hold under UAE consumer protection law.